Short Ribs Braciole (In Red Wine)

Short ribs are a good reason to get to know your butcher on a first-name basis. Call ahead so they can set some aside for you. Now, slow braising isn’t uniquely Italian, but when you do it with a nice Barolo wine and crushed tomatoes, and top the ribs with pine nuts and Parmesan  . . . well, that’s Italian!

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

For short ribs:

• 4 bone-in short ribs (about 3 pounds/1.4 kg), cut into thirds
• 1 tablespoon (15 mL) kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 mL) freshly cracked black pepper
• 3 tablespoons (45 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup (125 mL) roughly diced pancetta, about 4 ounces (110 g)
• 1 small onion, cut in medium dice (about 1 cup/250 mL)
• 1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
• 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 mL) red chili flakes
• 2 cups (500 mL) red wine, preferably Barolo, plus more as needed
• 1 cup (250 mL) canned tomatoes and their juice

For the topping:

• 1/4 cup (60 mL) pine nuts, roughly chopped
• 1 tablespoon (15 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup (60 mL) breadcrumbs
• 2 teaspoons (10 mL) dried oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 mL) coarsely ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons (30 mL) freshly chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons (30 mL) freshly grated Parmesan

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C).
2. Season the short ribs on all sides with the salt and pepper. Preheat a large ovenproof enameled cast iron pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, then add the olive oil. Cook the short ribs until all surfaces are a deep caramel brown, turning as necessary. Transfer the ribs to a plate and set aside.
3. Add the pancetta to the pot, and cook for 3 minutes or until golden brown and most of the fat has rendered. Add the onion and cook until it softens, about 1 minute. Stir in the garlic and the chili flakes, and cook for 1 minute.
4. Deglaze the pan with the wine, and use a wooden spoon to scrape up all the brown bits that are stuck to the bottom of the pot. Simmer the wine for 1 minute. Return the short ribs (and any juices left on the plate) to the pot.
5. Crush the tomatoes over a bowl with your hands, then add to the pot along with their juice. The liquid should almost cover the ribs; add more wine if necessary.
6. Bring the mixture to a simmer, cover, and transfer the pot to the oven. Cook for 2 hours or until the ribs are fork tender. Remove the lid, and cook another 30 minutes or so to reduce the sauce by half.
7. Make the topping while the short ribs cook in the oven. Toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet over low heat, shaking the pan occasionally to avoid burning, about 8 minutes. Watch closely, as pine nuts have a high oil content and can burn quite easily.
8. Add the olive oil and breadcrumbs and continue to cook, watching closely and stirring constantly, over low heat, until a golden toasted brown. Add the oregano and pepper. Cook a few seconds longer, then remove the skillet from the heat. Let cool. Stir in the parsley and Parmesan.
9. When the ribs are done, let rest for 15 minutes in the flavourful liquid. Remove the ribs from the pot, and place on a plate loosely covered with aluminum foil.
10. Remove some of the fat from the sauce—this step is optional, but it does makes the sauce taste better and less greasy. Tip the pot, and using a ladle, move aside the meat and slowly press down on the sauce so that it fills with only the clear fat. There will be at least 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of fat.
11. Place the pot over medium heat, and season to taste with pepper. Add 1/2 cup (125 mL) of water to the sauce if it’s too thick.
12. Place 3 to 4 pieces on a serving plate, and top with the sauce. Sprinkle a generous amount of the topping over the ribs.